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10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives

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Keywords
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A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 30 June 2024 | Viewed by 7010

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Special Issue Editor

Dr. Vasil Georgiev

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Guest Editor

Laboratory of Cell Biosystems, Department of Biotechnology, The Stephan Angeloff Institute of Microbiology, Bulgarian Academy of Sciences, 4000 Plovdiv, Bulgaria
Interests: biotechnology; plant cell, tissue and organ cultures; metabolite profiling; nutraceuticals; natural products; essential oils; nutricosmetics
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Consumers’ demand for high-quality and efficient cosmetics and personal care products continues to grow worldwide. In response, thousands of new products are launched on the market every year. To be viable, the new formulations have to comply with the highest quality standards, demonstrating proven activity, as well as international and national regulations. In addition, they have to be as natural as possible, being produced using sustainable and ecofriendly technology, having a low carbon footprint and recyclable packing, and being reasonably priced. Over the past decade, we have witnessed significant advances in the research into and development of cosmetics. Hundreds of new natural active ingredients originating from plants, microbes, algae, moss, snails, fish, and minerals have been developed and commercialized. With the advances in cellular agriculture, a lot of active substances, produced using plant cells and tissue culture technology, precision fermentation, and biotransformation have been introduced. New insights in natural deep eutectic solvent (NADES) research has allowed the application of highly efficient renewable green extraction technologies for the development of active cosmetic ingredients. At the same time, the research into and development of new, safe, and ecofriendly polymers, emulsifiers, gelling agents, surfactants, and preservative continues. The advances in microbiome research provides new insights for understanding the importance of microbiota for human wellness, and thus, many cosmetic formulations now include prebiotic, probiotic, and postbiotic ingredients. Meanwhile, scientific interest in new delivery systems as exosomes (extracellular vesicles), liposomes and nanoparticles has rapidly increased. However, the problems with regulations concerning quality control, safety, nomenclature, activity claims, and labeling in different markets (Europe, Asia, and the USA) remains apparent.

For this Special Issue, we welcomes reviews and/or original research papers describing recent advances in the development of innovative cosmetic formulations, active ingredients and technologies for their preparation, new green extraction technologies and new delivery systems, methods for the evaluation of biological activities, mechanisms of action and cosmetic effectiveness, new polymers, gelling agents, preservatives, recyclable and ecofriendly packaging, and toxicity, safety, and regulatory issues.

Dr. Vasil Georgiev
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

cosmeceuticals
nutricosmetics
active ingredients
preservatives
delivery systems
green extraction systems
plant cell and tissue culture products
natural polymers
exosomes
skin microbiome

Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

Jump to: Review

16 pages, 4054 KiB

Open AccessArticle

N-Acetylneuraminic Acid Inhibits Melanogenesis via Induction of Autophagy

by Kei Yoshikawa and Kazuhisa Maeda

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 82; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030082 - 21 May 2024

Viewed by 340

Abstract

N-acetylneuraminic acid (Neu5Ac) is the predominant form of sialic acid present in the glossy swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta). It is also the only form of sialic acid detected in the human body. In this study, we investigated the mechanism underlying melanogenesis inhibition by Neu5Ac. We discovered that a reduction in tyrosinase protein levels led to an inhibition of melanin production by Neu5Ac. Additionally, the mRNA and protein levels of ubiquitin-specific protease (USP5) and microtubule-associated protein 1 light chain 3 (LC3)-II increased, while those of p62 decreased, indicating enhanced autophagic activity. Lysosomal cathepsin L2 protein levels also increased, and immunostaining revealed colocalization of lysosomal membrane protein (LAMP)-1 and tyrosinase. Additionally, levels of chaperonin containing T-complex polypeptide (CCT), implicated in increased autophagic flux, were elevated. Altogether, these findings suggest that tyrosinase-containing coated vesicles are transported by Neu5Ac into the autophagic degradation pathway, suppressing mature melanosome generation. This process involves increased USP5 levels preventing recognition of polyubiquitin by proteasomes. Furthermore, elevated CCT3 protein levels may enhance autophagic flux, leading to the incorporation of tyrosinase-containing coated vesicles into autophagosomes. These autophagosomes then fuse with lysosomes for cathepsin L2–mediated degradation. Thus, our findings suggest that Neu5Ac reduces tyrosinase activity and inhibits melanosome maturation by promoting selective autophagic degradation of abnormal proteins by p62. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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13 pages, 3306 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of Chlorinated Water on Neurite Length of Cultured Dorsal Root Ganglion Neurons and Semaphorin 3A Content of Cultured Epidermal Keratinocytes

by Kazuhisa Maeda, Neneka Okumura, Aoba Ogawa and Hatsumi Takeda

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 75; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030075 - 7 May 2024

Viewed by 725

Abstract

The tap water that we normally use contains certain concentrations of free residual chlorine to kill microorganisms and viruses and make it safe for use. Water containing free residual chlorine not only dries out our hair and skin but can also cause irritation and itching in some people—especially those with sensitive skin or reduced skin barrier function. We investigated the effects of free residual chlorine on cultured dorsal root ganglion neurons and cultured epidermal keratinocytes. First, we measured neurite length in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Next, to evaluate the effects of chlorine on semaphorin 3A (Sema3A) and nerve growth factor (NGF) levels in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes, we used an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay to measure NGF in the supernatant and polymerase chain reaction and Western blot to determine Sema3A and NGF levels. Chlorine elongated the neurite length and increased the number of projections in cultured rat dorsal root ganglion neurons. Although there were no changes in NGF mRNA or protein levels in the supernatant of cultured human epidermal keratinocytes in the presence of chlorine, Sema3A mRNA and protein levels decreased, and the ratio of Sema3A to NGF was also reduced. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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10 pages, 2070 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Efficacy and Safety of Monopolar Radiofrequency for Tightening the Skin of Aged Faces

by JungMin Shin, Yeounkuk Sung, Soyoung Jin, Cho-Long Hwang, Hyunjung Kim, Dongkyun Hong, Kyung Eun Jung, Young-Joon Seo and Young Lee

Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 71; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030071 - 3 May 2024

Viewed by 946

Abstract

Background: Monopolar radiofrequency (RF) has emerged as a promising modality for tightening the skin of aged faces. Although many studies have assessed the efficacy of monopolar RF via the clinical evaluation of photographs, few have examined the long-term effectiveness and safety of this therapy using various skin testing devices. Methods: Twenty women with aged faces participated in this study. After a single monopolar RF treatment, three blinded dermatologists who were not involved in the treatment evaluated its clinical efficacy and safety after 4, 12, and 24 weeks. Skin firmness, fine wrinkles, skin pores, and skin tone were also measured using an indentometer (Courage+Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) and a facial aging measurement device (Mark-Vu; PSI Plus, Suwon-si, Republic of Korea). Results: Skin laxity in the jowls and nasolabial folds showed significant improvement 12 weeks after the single monopolar RF treatment when evaluated by dermatologists, and this improvement lasted 24 weeks (p < 0.05). Moreover, the participants reported improvement at 4 weeks compared to baseline which lasted 24 weeks (p < 0.05). Skin firmness measured in the cheek increased 4 weeks after treatment and continued to improve during 24 weeks of follow-up (p < 0.01). Although there was a gradual increase in improvement in skin pores, fine wrinkles, and skin tones, there were no statistical differences compared to the baseline. No patients experienced pain during the treatment, and no burns, skin breakdown, or scarring occurred after treatment. Conclusions: A single monopolar RF treatment is effective for females with aged face. A significant improvement in the jowls and nasolabial folds and facial skin firmness was observed between the 4- and 24-week follow-ups without adverse effects. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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14 pages, 2490 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Interaction of Perfumes with Cytochrome P-450 19

by Iva Drejslarová, Tomáš Ječmen and Petr Hodek

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 33; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020033 - 23 Feb 2024

Viewed by 2233

Abstract

Cytochrome P450 (CYP) enzymes play a key role in the metabolism of foreign compounds and in the biosynthesis and catabolism of endogenous substances, including hormones. The activity of these enzymes can be affected by various xenobiotics, such as pollutants, food constituents, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetic products, which can disrupt the endocrine system by interfering with steroidogenic CYPs. CYP19, also known as aromatase, is a crucial enzyme for testosterone conversion into 17β-estradiol, which is the final step in estrogen biosynthesis. Endocrine disruptors have the potential to inhibit CYP19 activity, leading to an imbalance in estrogen levels in the body. This imbalance can impair reproduction and cause osteoporosis, atherosclerosis, dementia, and some types of cancer. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of commercially available perfumes on testosterone aromatization to 17β-estradiol. For this purpose, we used high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with UV detection and HPLC coupled with mass spectrometry (MS) to examine CYP19 activity with and without perfume. The results showed that all perfumes tested (in a 300-fold dilution) had an inhibitory effect on this enzyme-catalyzed reaction, particularly the Montale^® fragrance, ‘Intense Roses Musk’, which decreased 17β-estradiol production by 88% in comparison with the control. Upon exposure to UV light, the inhibitory effect of this perfume did not decrease. But exposure to UV light significantly increased the inhibitory capacity of another perfume with a weak baseline inhibitory effect. To ascertain whether this inhibition was caused by CYP19 interactions with perfumes, we measured the catalytic activity of NADPH:cytochrome P450 oxidoreductase (CYPOR), the CYP reaction partner, with one selected perfume, ‘Intense Roses Musk’ by Montale^®, and found no significant CYPOR inhibition. Accordingly, the decrease in testosterone conversion into 17β-estradiol caused by this perfume derives solely from CYP19. Combined, our findings highlight the importance of testing perfumes rather than single ingredients to determine their potential for adverse effects and to ensure consumer safety because their mixtures can interfere with a key enzyme of estrogen biosynthesis. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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Review

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29 pages, 1254 KiB

Open AccessReview

Recent Advances in Microneedling-Assisted Cosmetic Applications

by Rania Hamed, Baraah Jehad Abu Nahia, Ahlam Zaid Alkilani, Yasmeen Al-Adhami and Rana Obaidat

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 51; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020051 - 2 Apr 2024

Viewed by 2237

Abstract

Microneedling, also known as percutaneous collagen induction, using microneedling devices and fabricated microneedle patches, has been widely employed in cosmetic applications for acne scar treatment, skin care, hair loss, melasma, skin rejuvenation, and skin cancer. The micro-channels formed by microneedling through the stratum corneum facilitate the delivery of cosmetic agents and stimulate collagen and elastin production by inducing the wound-healing cascade, keeping the skin shiny and wrinkle-free. Several cosmetic agents, such as ascorbic acid, hyaluronic acid, retinoids, niacinamide, and peptides, have been delivered by microneedling. This review aims to highlight the use of microneedling devices and fabricated microneedle patches in facilitating the delivery of cosmetic agents through the skin layers. Moreover, the differences between the microneedling devices, commonly used alone or in combinational treatments with topical formulations, are explored. Furthermore, the safety of microneedling in terms of skin irritation, pain sensation, skin or systemic infection, and chemical and biological materials used in the fabrication of microneedles is discussed. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)

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