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Heritage
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Dyes in History and Archaeology 42
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Dyes in History and Archaeology 42

A special issue of Heritage (ISSN 2571-9408). This special issue belongs to the section "Museum and Heritage".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (30 April 2024) | Viewed by 2154

Special Issue Editors

Dr. Jo Kirby

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
National Gallery, London, UK
Interests: pigments; paints; dyes; art history; artists materials; paint technology
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Cecilie Brøns

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, Copenhagen, Denmark
Interests: ancient polychromy; ancient textiles and dress; Graeco-Roman sculpture; pigments; dyes
Annemette Bruselius Scharff

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Guest Editor
The Royal Danish Academy, Institute of Conservation, Copenhagen, Denmark
Interests: textile conservation; natural dyes; natural and synthetic fibres; microscopy
Dr. Joanne Dyer

E-Mail
Guest Editor
Department of Scientific Research, British Museum, Great Russell Street, London, UK
Interests: colours and colourants; pigments; dyes; textiles; sculpture; ancient painting techniques and craft practices; noninvasive techniques; multispectral imaging
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Regina Hofmann-De Keijzer

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Archaeometry, University of Applied Arts Vienna, Vienna, Austria
Interests: natural dyes; natural organic pigments; natural fibres; dyed archaeological textiles; dyed historical textiles
Dr. Paula Nabais

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Conservation and Restoration of Cultural Heritage, NOVA University of Lisbon, Lisbon, Portugal
Interests: natural dyes; historical reconstructions; analytical techniques
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Dr. Sara Norrehed

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Heritage Laboratory, Swedish National Heritage Board, Artillerigatan 33A, 621 22 Visby, Sweden
Interests: heritage science; organic chemistry; non-invasive techniques; multispectral imaging; pigments; dyes; preventive conservation
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

This Special Issue features contributions from the conference DHA42. Dyes in History and Archaeology (DHA) is an annual international conference that focuses on the academic discussion of dyes and organic pigments used in the past. Every year since 1982, this meeting unites conservators, curators, (technical) art historians, craftspeople, artists, scientists, and academics from museums, universities, research centres, and other public or private institutions. The aim of this conference is to bring these specialists together in order to delve deeply into the history, production, application, and properties of organic colourants, as well as their analytical characterisation and identification. The focus is often on textile objects, but it can also centre on other substrates, as well as painted surfaces. The 42nd annual meeting was hosted in Copenhagen by the University of Copenhagen in collaboration with the National Museum of Denmark, the Centre for Textile Research (CTR), the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, and the Danish School of Conservation.

For more information about future meetings of the Dyes in History and Archaeology group, see https://www.dyesinhistoryandarchaeology.com.

Dr. Jo Kirby
Dr. Cecilie Brøns
Annemette Bruselius Scharff
Dr. Joanne Dyer
Dr. Regina Hofmann-De Keijzer
Dr. Paula Nabais
Dr. Sara Norrehed
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Heritage is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1600 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • dyes
  • colourants
  • organic pigments
  • mordants
  • archives
  • crafts
  • industry

Published Papers (3 papers)

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Research

14 pages, 25965 KiB  
Article
Technology of Dyeing beyond Text
by Anete Karlsone
Heritage 2024, 7(6), 2668-2681; https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage7060127 - 24 May 2024
Viewed by 222
Abstract
A major source in the research on Baltic cultural history (Latvia, Estonia), including studies dedicated to the clothing of local inhabitants, are the drawings and descriptions of Johann Christoph Brotze (1742–1823), which date back to the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. [...] Read more.
A major source in the research on Baltic cultural history (Latvia, Estonia), including studies dedicated to the clothing of local inhabitants, are the drawings and descriptions of Johann Christoph Brotze (1742–1823), which date back to the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. They contain references to dyes and dyeing methods used by local peasants. The information recorded by J. C. Brotze, although fragmentary, is valuable because researchers lack documentary sources about the dyeing methods used in the 18th century in the territory of present-day Latvia. Additional research yields more extensive information about the contents of the descriptions. The current article will describe the experimental method that enabled the establishment of the specific dyeing technique, which, using Bixa orellana L., was employed to obtain the particular orange color referred to in the descriptions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Dyes in History and Archaeology 42)
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19 pages, 11765 KiB  
Article
An Unknown 18th-Century Flemish Dyers Manuscript from Antwerp (1778–1802)
by Emile Lupatini and Natalia Ortega Saez
Heritage 2024, 7(5), 2458-2476; https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage7050117 - 9 May 2024
Viewed by 513
Abstract
This paper presents a historical analysis of a rare dyer’s manuscript, preserved within the Museum of Industry in Ghent, Belgium. The manuscript, originating from a dyer in late 18th-century Antwerp, includes an extensive collection of recipes. The study will enable researchers to better [...] Read more.
This paper presents a historical analysis of a rare dyer’s manuscript, preserved within the Museum of Industry in Ghent, Belgium. The manuscript, originating from a dyer in late 18th-century Antwerp, includes an extensive collection of recipes. The study will enable researchers to better grasp the practices of traditional dyeing techniques and materials in the region during that time. The manuscript focuses primarily on the dyeing of woolen fabrics. Approximately 90 of the 132 recipes utilize red dyes. Recipes for dying orange, brown, black, blue, and green colors are also described. The document mentions the use of madder, brazilwood, redwood, and cochineal. To create a variety of red shades, the dyer describes how fabrics were treated with different mordanting compounds, with alum and tin as the main ingredients, and how the dyeing solutions were prepared. The resulting colors include ‘madder red’, ‘formal red’, ‘crimson’, ‘scarlet’, ‘Turkish red’, ‘fire color’ and ‘flesh color’. In addition to the dyeing recipes, the manuscript contains various accounting documents and correspondences between the dyer, customers, and suppliers. Lastly, over 100 original, colored samples are attached to the described recipes. In this paper, the artifact’s contents will be disclosed, comprising recipes with attached samples and correspondence. Findings resulting from archive research will be included, contextualizing and placing the dyer in their urban and social context. The paper concludes by discussing its potential limitations and provides avenues for possible future research. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Dyes in History and Archaeology 42)
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15 pages, 2031 KiB  
Article
Unraveling a Historical Mystery: Identification of a Lichen Dye Source in a Fifteenth Century Medieval Tapestry
by Rachel M. Lackner, Solenn Ferron, Joël Boustie, Françoise Le Devehat, H. Thorsten Lumbsch and Nobuko Shibayama
Heritage 2024, 7(5), 2370-2384; https://doi.org/10.3390/heritage7050112 - 1 May 2024
Viewed by 855
Abstract
As part of a long-term campaign to document, study, and conserve the Heroes tapestries from The Cloisters collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, organic colorant analysis of Julius Caesar (accession number 47.101.3) was performed. Analysis with liquid chromatography–quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (LC-qToF-MS) [...] Read more.
As part of a long-term campaign to document, study, and conserve the Heroes tapestries from The Cloisters collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, organic colorant analysis of Julius Caesar (accession number 47.101.3) was performed. Analysis with liquid chromatography–quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (LC-qToF-MS) revealed the presence of several multiply chlorinated xanthones produced only by certain species of lichen. Various lichen dye sources have been documented in the literature for centuries and are classified as either ammonia fermentation method (AFM) or boiling water method (BWM) dyes based on their method of production. However, none of these known sources produce the distinctive metabolites present in the tapestry. LC-qToF-MS was also used to compare the chemical composition of the dyes in the tapestry with that of several species of crustose lichen. Lichen metabolites, including thiophanic acid and arthothelin, were definitively identified in the tapestry based on comparison with lichen xanthone standards and a reference of Lecanora sulphurata, confirming the presence of a lichen source. This finding marks the first time that lichen xanthones have been identified in a historic object and the first evidence that BWM lichen dyes may have been used prior to the eighteenth century. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Dyes in History and Archaeology 42)
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